Thailand 

Chiang Rai and the North – what to see and do 

For centuries, the Golden Triangle has been a legendary region, linked to stories of the old Opium trails, hill tribes, ancient kingdoms and stunning view on the mountains and the Mekong River. In the past, this was a heavily fought for area by the KMT, drug lords and the CIA, with an interesting history in the world geopolitics. The region continues to be one of the most scenic areas of Thailand with the friendliest people, one of the most scenic drives and tasty food. Apart from being picturesque, the region is also known for the crafts and arts, and the influences from both Laos as Myanmar, countries that seem to be just a stone’s throw away. Travel distances are short and scenic, and the area is easy to combine with Sukhothai, Nan and Chiang Mai.

Mae Fah Luang – Chiang Rai – White temple- Akha Mudhouse MaeSalong – Chiang Saen- Rai Saeng Arun – Phrae -Khum Vongburi Museum 

A new, 5-day itinerary, tells the story of Chiang Rai and the north, featuring some classics as the white temple, the Mekong River and tribal walks. We combine these classics with new experiences talking about the Kuo Min Tang, Taiwanese history, tea tasting in the mountains in Mae Salong, a walk within the ancient city walls of Phrae and an interactive meet-up with the locals at a Phrae arts workshop (and yes, a not so typical cocktail is included!). And of course, we spend some time in Chiang Saen and Chiang Khong as these are real gems in the area.

Chiang Rai and the north – hotel descriptions – our personal and brutally honest opinions 

The north of Thailand, including Chiang Rai province, Doi Mae Salong, Chiang Sean, Chiang Khong, Phrae, Nan and Lampang are stunningly beautiful with spectacular mountain ranges, paddy fields, rivers and the charm of farmer’s life. It’s an area with colourful tribal history and culture, the ancient Lanna kingdoms and rich heritage from the teak, opium and tobacco industry. A wide range of boutique hotels invite you to stay in nature and we do recommend avoiding the big city center of Chiang Rai town and instead staying in the countryside while you’re visiting this area.

Descriptions of the hotels we visited, inspected, stayed overnight or had a beer or two during our inspection trip (not in random order….. the lower the ranking the less we’re inclined to recommend your clients to stay there).

Rai Seang Arun – Mekong River side near Chiang Khong – the location of this, architectural, stunning hotel, right on the Mekong riverside is fantastic. Popular with Thai tourists to make selfies during the strawberry season. The service is friendly yet a bit limited in the linguistics department, the dinner menu offers little choice but that all doesn’t matter if you’re in one of the 3 beautiful Rim Khong bungalows that are overlooking the Mekong River. The rooms are tasteful decorated, a bit rustic and have a good outdoor shower. The hotel has more bungalows across the street in the paddy fields and on the hill.

Rai Seang Arun – Mekong River Side

Athita the hidden court – Chiang Saen – a beautifully designed hotel in Chiang Saen at 3 minutes’ walk from the Mekong River with a 700-year-old temple ruin just right next to the hotel. The local red bricks form the base of the hotel, which has a charming café, friendly reception and good rooms in the main building (the superior rooms are preferred). Just behind the reception are the huge, 2- and 3-bedroom villas that have huge living space and dining area, ideal for families and luxury clients.

Nan Seasons Boutique Resort – one of our favourite in Northern Thailand; friendly, a great pool and fantastic food. The bungalows are spacious, well decorated in the traditional Nan style and the owners are welcoming and very knowledgeable about Nan province. A little gem in the area.

Suan Glang Na Resort – Phrae – Designed with a subtle nod to the legacy of tobacco in the old and rich days of Phrae. The Suan Glang Na owners love Phrae and the area and are telling the story of this ancient kingdom in Northern Thailand with a passion for conservation of culture and nature. The views over the paddy fields are stunning and the restaurant offers both local as international dishes. Spacious rooms and a welcoming, homey atmosphere nestled in rural charm, just outside Phrae city.

Baan Sakuna – Chiang Khong – very welcoming and friendly, this resort offers a wide garden, great views and huge rooms. Easy going and very knowledgeable about the area, the owners of Baan Sakuna make sure you will leave with a smile on your face.

Akha Mudhouse – Mae Salong 

Akha Mudhouse – Mae Salong – staying in a tribal Akha village while still having privacy of your own room and bathroom and enjoy tasteful tribal food with a fantastic view over the mountains. A night at this simple guesthouse is a special experience, not luxury but certainly unforgettable and comfy enough at the edge of Mae Salong; an area with an interesting history and beautiful views over the tea plantations.

Wang Put Tan Boutique House – Mae Salong – This tea tasting restaurant has expanded and built some spacious bungalows in the middle of their tea estate with stunning views. In the weekends the restaurant can be busy with local tourists, the evenings are quiet, the views are stunning, the service and food probably just ok yet this makes up for the special location.

Ahsa Farm Stay – Mae Salong foothills – we love this very cute and friendly farm stay at the bottom of the Mae Salong mountains. 4 well decorated and rustic rooms with private bathroom, A/C and fantastic views over the paddy fields while water buffalos grazing around the paddy fields to complete the perfect picture. A stay here includes getting to work in the fields for a bit and understanding the Thai farmer’s life.

Ahsa Farm Stay – Mae Salong foothills

The Legend Chiang Rai – a good, classic boutique hotel in Chiang Rai city which has been favored by tour groups and offers excellent Italian food (if that’s what you’re craving for). It has all facilities you expect and a friendly GM who is a true legend of the area.

Pankled Villa – a little budget gem in the outskirts of Chiang Rai city with rustic bungalows in a lush garden and a casual restaurant for excellent Thai food (including vegan). The hotel has a swimming pool and friendly staff. The rooms are simple, clean and spacious.

Anantara Golden Triangle – honestly, we think this resort is a bit overrated and overpriced. Beautiful landscaping, 4 stars but not top-luxury and just as “the golden triangle tourist zone”, it feels as if it has seen its best time. The elephant program and activities are personal, sustainable and well operated. The deluxe three country view rooms are small (32 m2) and views not always great, so while spending a small fortune anyway, you might as well go for the suite rooms if your clients insist on staying here.

Suan Glang Na Resort – Phrae

The Golden Triangle: From Opium Empires to Digital Deceit

The Hall of Opium continues to be a very interesting place to visit, as it tells the history of opium traders in the wider region including India, China, Hong Kong and also the involvement of the British and Dutch. A history related to dark business, dirty practises and often downright criminal activities and scams.

Once synonym to poppy fields and narcotic empires, the Golden Triangle, where Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar converge, now finds its shadowed legacy echoed in a new model of illicit enterprise. The opium trade, used to enrich warlords through global trafficking routes, has given way to sprawling scam centres, cyber fraud hubs, and human exploitation networks.

This is history repeating, possible on a bigger scale. The same remote terrain, porous borders, and weak governance that enabled drug lords, now serves as fertile ground for digital crime syndicates.

During our inspection we saw the chilling reality. The once romantic boat ride on the Mekong at the “golden triangle” which was the tourist’s favourite for many years is a complete led down with views on the scam centres on the Laos site of the Golden Triangle – King Roman! In the scam centres, workers are taught all kinds of online scams ranging from hacking websites and get credit card info to online relationship scams and emotional exploitation. This article explains more about these centres which are also found in the border areas with Myanmar and Cambodia. An estimated 350.000 people are working in this illegal industry at the moment. Have a look at this article ‘Las Vegas in Laos’: The riverside city awash with crime – Straits Times articleor listen to this BBC podcast about it 

Why do we mention these scam centres in a travel newsletter?

We believe that travelling is about exploring a country and getting to know the people, the culture, the food and understand how things work in daily life, what emotions people go through, how do people earn their living and so on. We try to show the best of a country and keep stories light (after all, your clients are on a holiday and not on a research trip 😊) 

However, for many years, hundreds of thousands of tourists have visited the Golden Triangle, done boat trips on the Mekong River and heard the stories about the opium trade in the past and all the suffering it brought. We think it’s fair to share these insights on illegal activities along the borders. Travel isn’t just about glossy Insta posts and curated highlights. It’s about peeling back layers, listening to local voices, and understanding the full narrative — even when parts of it are uncomfortable, gritty, or morally complex.

Bangkok by night – some recommended tours

Bangkok is our home and one of the most visited cities in the world for many good reasons. We regularly see clients returning back to Bangkok and visit us in the cosy old town of Bangkok for daytime scrolls and checking out the new and trendy coffeeshops.It’s also one of the safest capital cities on earth and we certainly advise to explore Bangkok at night as well. Here is a selection of some of our favourite tours to do in Bangkok in the evening: 

Tuk Tuk food tour – tickle your taste buds – (18:00 – 21:00)

Your private guide and tuk tuk driver will pick you up from the hotel to discover some of the best street food in a local neighbourhood. Partly on foot and partly by tuk tuk you will visit at least 4 different street food shops to get a good impression of the world-famous Bangkok Street food.

Chatting, Chanting, and Fortune-telling – (16:00 – 20:00)

While Buddhism is a lot about practice and self-discipline, there are some parts of the philosophy that have influences from different beliefs and faiths. Today we will make a deeper connection to some of these, while talking to a Buddhist monk to get a better introduction to the religion, going to meet a fortune teller who might see interesting scenarios in your future, followed by joining an evening chanting at a local temple – all very special encounters in order to get a more overall picture on how Buddhism is practiced and lived.

E-Scooter through Thonburi and China Town (17:00 – 21:30 Join-in tour)

Today you will join a fantastic evening trip to get a good feel for Bangkok highlights. Once you are comfortable with the e-scooter, you will glide through the vibrant streets of bang, shortly after you’ll make a quick stop at a local snack shop for delightful Thai treats known as ‘Khanom Bueang.’ Continuing along the river, we’ll visit a local market for dinner and cross over to the vibrant vibes of China Town, exploring its bustling streets and hidden corners. Continue to the old town and see the beautifully illuminated Grand Palace and Wat Arun at night, the flower market, small alleys only reachable by e-scooter, Indian Town and the Giant Swing.

Dining in the sky – (18:00 – 21:00)

Bangkok’s skyline offers fantastic views over the city that never sleeps and a dinner at one of the many rooftop restaurants is certainly an unforgettable event. The restaurant scene changes very fast and always comes up with new ideas and experiences. We have reserved a table for you at one of the rooftop restaurants in Bangkok for a surprise meal.

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Edwin Briels and his team have been creating experiences for travellers for over 20 years. Edwin Briels continuously finds new paths to travel and new experiences to show clients the story of Myanmar and Thailand and engages you in a fascinating journey through this part of Asia with the most fascinating stories.